LOS ANGELES TIMES – CALENDAR WEEKEND
CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
December 19, 2002
S. Irene Virbila
EATERY MAY EARN CHEFS RIBBING
Abandoning fancy cuisine, partners serve up several tasty barbecue
styles.
After
years as executive chef at 72 Market and later Maple Drive, Leonard
Schwartz has left haute American cuisine behind ... and gone
into the barbecue business in Montrose. Zeke's Smokehouse is
a collaboration among Schwartz, former Reign executive chef Michael
Rosen and Ron and Kirk Gelsinger, father-and-son partners in
the local butcher shop Gelsinger's Meats.
On recent visit, both chefs were in the house. Schwartz sported
a double-breasted chef’s jacket while Rosen looked dapper in a white coat, a meat thermometer
tucked in his pocket.
The walls of the sparkling new regional barbecue restaurant
and takeout are covered with black-and-white photos of barbecue
specialists at work around the country.
A board at the back lists what’s on offer – everything from Memphis
baby back ribs or Kansas City spare ribs to Texas beef brisket and hot links,
sold both a la carte or as BBQ platters with a choice of two sides. If you love
pulled pork, Zeke’s Carolina pulled pork sandwich is worth trying.
What sets Zeke’s apart is the quality of the meats, the precision of the
cooking and the sides. When you can order made-from-scratch beans, a classic
all American potato salad and an astonishing, freshly made applesauce, what’s
not to like? Not to forget hush puppies, potato chips made on site and, for those
trying to do the good thing, grilled vegetables.
In a real departure from tradition, instead of Wonder Bread,
you get fresh-baked white bread. This I can live with.
It’s not all barbecue, though. Zeke’s specialties include beef and
pork meatloaf, the chili Schwartz served at both 72 Market and Maple Drive, and
for those who can’t handle the meat feast, a simple grilled salmon and
vegetables.
Leave room for dessert. Some of us might make a special trip
just for the hot fudge sundae or the highfalutin’ giant brownie with a fudgy dark center,
to say nothing of the IBC root beer float.
The question is not whether this new barbecue concept will
succeed. It’s:
Where will the next location be? |